Passage to Suvarov

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PASSAGE TO SUVAROV

DAY 40

Today we have to leave this Island Paradise of Aitutaki. We are all reluctant to leave; it is so beautiful & there is still much more to explore.

Will started to prepare for departure by checking the engine oil, adding water to the batteries, checking fuel level, stowing the dinghy, etc. When he opened the engine compartment to check the oil he discovered a whole bunch more oil had accumulated in the "diapers" that he had placed in the bilge to soak up the oil.

This was so frustrating!! Detecting where the oil was coming from had been next to impossible. So, the next thing to do was to use the oil pump to pump out the oil from the bilge & clean it up & place clean "diapers" down & watch to see if an oil leak from the engine could be detected.

He watched & he watched. Finally, he saw a drip!!! It was coming from a side cover on the engine. Someone had installed a throttle linkage bracket & not used a long enough bolt which resulted in the end of the bolt being stripped. This then led to the side cover not being securely fastened & allowed the oil to drip into the engine compartment & bilge. If whoever had installed this device had done it properly with the correct size bolt, the oil would not have leaked.

After all this time we finally have solved the oil leak!!! Thank goodness. Needless to say, Will was relieved to have finally figured out this problem.

The temperature was very hot & humid. The engine compartment is small & closed in making the temperature inside even hotter. While searching for the oil leak he banged & cut his head, had sweat running down his body & was coated in oil up to his elbows.

The Captain was watching what was going on & observed the oil running out of the diapers. She commented to Will that the oil was coming out of the motor & he told her it was not & that the oil she was watching was coming from the rags.

She was not listening to his explanation & questioned him three different times. Three times he calmly told her of his findings. She still would not believe what he was telling her & once again the argument started. Finally, after she said that "but" word again he got upset with her & told her to "...shut the f&%# up!"

He was at his wits end with her continuous questioning his findings. He had his head in his arms & shook his head back & forth wondering how to get through to this woman without it becoming a rude shouting match. If only she would listen! It was getting tiresome trying to explain things over & over to her.

Will is very patient & does not easily lose his cool. I have never heard or seen him pushed to his limits the way the Captain pushed him. 

It turned out that she was not concerned about the motor not working but that Will had been rude to her! As far as I was concerned the motor problem was a bigger deal than someone being rude.

Finding the oil leak did not answer the problem of the motor, however. It was something else that was happening to make the motor to not work properly. Will discovered that there really was something seriously wrong with the motor.

Without proper diagnostic tools, it was next to impossible to pinpoint just what the exact problem was. The engine had very little pushing capability to navigate through the water.

We would have to rely solely on the wind to get us to Hawaii.

Before we could leave on the next passage to Suvarov Will had to troubleshoot the water maker once again! This was never ending - we thought that at least the water maker would not be a problem again given that we had got a new part for it.

This time the motor would not work properly. Well, after looking at it again & taking the motor apart it seemed like a "no-brainer."

The water maker had been installed upside down. With the water maker being mounted in this manner it allowed salt water to run into the motor. Being mounted upside down would also allow oil from the gear box to drip into the motor.

And that is exactly what happened. Good thing Will has experience in these things. He took the brushes out to discover corrosion in the brush guides. After cleaning out the brush guides & reassembly, the water maker worked again.

The next thing to tackle before we set off was to secure the salt water pump in the galley. The screws were coming loose & would end up falling apart if it wasn't secured down.

Once that was done, the next task was to realign the wind vane rudder. It is just one thing after another on this journey. Everyone is very upset & frustrated with the ongoing arguing with the Captain.

Leaving the mooring buoy would be the next topic of discussion! Will cast off our lines from the buoy & we were off. The Captain had been below in the cabin & realized that we were moving without the motor running. She argued that we could not leave the mooring buoy while under sail. Well, we had just done it.

And besides, what was she going to do if she had no engine, how would she get going then? She was not convinced we could leave under sail even though we were on our way.

I guess the Captain has had enough.

She decides on her own that we are going to head straight for Hawaii & abort our plans for going to Suvarov, Penrhyn & Kiribati Islands. She stated this decision to Will & told him the coordinates (as if he needed them), after he had the sails already set on course. He "seemingly" agreed - we would head for Hawaii.

Once we were established on our course I questioned Will about the change of plans & he looked at me & smiled. He told me that we were on a course for Suvarov! Looking surprised, I asked what prompted him to do that? 

We had invested too much money, time & effort in this boat & sailing adventure that he did not want to quit or abort the mission. Even though it was very difficult dealing with the Captain neither one of us wanted to quit. We said we would get the boat back to Hawaii & wanted to do just that. At this point in time we were not willing to let her dictate to us what we were or were not going to do.

Needless to say, I was not unhappy with the decision to carry on. We could handle the Captain. We had so far. It couldn't get much worse, we thought.

This would be our last chance to abort the adventure because there would not be any more places that were on our way that would have any airport facilities. We were in the middle of the Pacific Ocean!

Will still had several weeks left of holidays so had plenty of time left to continue this sailing adventure & visit more of the Cook Islands. Although we had already gone through some major confrontations with the Captain, we thought that we could cope with anything else that may come along. We felt we had everything under control.

Silly us - the most trying events were yet to come!!

DAY 41

We had a very quiet night of sailing about 6.5 to 7 knots & a very quiet Captain during the day. She may have been upset because we would not go along with her in her decision to abort our plans. We weren't too concerned with what she thought about us going ahead & sailing to Suvarov. After all, she had been talking about going to Suvarov from the very beginning. Of all the places to visit, Suvarov was on the top of her list of places to stop at.

We decided to start the engine again to charge our batteries & were faced with a motor that would not come up to speed to run properly & then it would start picking up speed & race. The only way to turn it off was to bolt down the companionway stairs, take the stairs off & then put something over the air intake.

And now there was smoke billowing out while the motor was running. It would run long enough to charge batteries for about one hour. At the same time we took advantage of the charging & made water also.

DAY 42

Another uneventful night of slow steady sailing about 4 - 5 knots led into & through the next day & evening of the same speed winds. Everyone was pretty mellow in the heat & humidity.

We took advantage of the calm conditions to make a detailed list of all of the boat deficiencies that we had discovered since being aboard.

We tried to call our friend in Chilliwack but the propagation was very poor so we could not make contact.

DAY 43

The last night sail was once again uneventful. We spotted land of Suvarov about 7:30 in the morning.

Breathtaking!! Wow - we thought that Aitutaki was wonderful - how could anything be more beautiful? We were in awe as we made our approach looking for an entrance through the reef.

It is so amazing when you are out in the middle of the ocean with nothing but water all around you for days & then out of the horizon there appears green mounds.

After sailing all the way from Aitutaki we now had to engage the engine to get inside the lagoon. This is where the motor really started acting up. White smoke billowed out, the engine raced & could only be shut off by  putting something over the air intake.

Whoever was on the Island would see & hear us coming & would be wondering what on earth was wrong with this visitor disturbing the quiet & pristine conditions of this paradise.

We were careful coming through the passage into the lagoon, ever watchful for coral heads that were indicated on the charts. The waters were crystal clear showing white sand at the bottom. Spectacular to say the least!

As you can see from the pictures, we are now at anchor. This was done under much stress.

I was helping to watch for coral heads in the water as well as watching the depth gauge. As we made our way inside the lagoon & prepared to set anchor I noticed the depth starting to get quite shallow. I told the Captain (she was at the helm and Will was preparing the anchor) that the depth was getting shallower & shallower. She responded by telling me it was ok, not to worry about it.

I got very alarmed when the depth gauge was reading ten feet & then eight & then six & she still kept going! When the gauge showed six feet I began to get really worried because our keel is 6'8" & any second I expected that we would be aground! I read out the depths as it got shallower & shallower & the Captain just kept going!

She then proceeded to inform me that the depth gauge was not calibrated!

I was flabbergasted to hear that bit of news! After being on the boat all this time & we were just finding out now that the depth gauge was not correct. I could not believe it!!

And then we also found out about the Captain's sailing knowledge or lack thereof in finding a proper place to anchor. It is a general practice to make a complete circle of the area that you want to set your anchor to make sure that if the boat swings 360 degrees that you will have enough depth to accommodate a full swing.

The Captain did not check out the full circle depth to ensure enough depth & also to ensure that there would not be any coral heads that we might hit during a swing. She just decided to throw down the anchor where she thought it would be ok.

From our earlier dealing with the Captain, there was not point in saying anything to her about her method of anchoring. We could only hope that we did not have any strong winds come up that could make us swing around & get tangled in a coral head or have the anchor drag.

Looking on to shore
Once we were securely anchored Will tended to the engine once again. The throttle cable was not working properly so he set to fixing that & then fixed the fuel level gauge inside the fuel tank.

He then tried to troubleshoot the engine problem again by cleaning out the build up on the heat exchanger on the motor by pouring vinegar into it to try to dissolve the build up. It would take a couple of days to dissolve.

We also discovered the compass was out 10 to 15 degrees. Just more malfunctions!

When we tidied up a bit & Will finished troubleshooting what he could for the time being, we got the dinghy inflated & went to see the cruisers in the only other boat that was here. They knew we were going to be arriving from communication with Starlight Express.
At anchor

Boats at anchor

Once we met the crew from Jabulani & swapped a few stories we carried on to visit the little Island called Anchorage Island & meet the caretakers. We met Papa John, his Grandson Tottoo & nephew Baker.

Papa John

BakerMarilyn & Tottoo
Back of shelterFront of shelter
They welcomed us & gave us coconut crabs, fresh caught tuna & fresh coconuts. What a feast we had! Papa John offered to take us fishing, Cook Island style, early the next morning. We looked forward to that.

Will was soon helping to troubleshoot a few electrical & pump problems that the shelter had. He would gather tools & parts from the boat to fix the problems. A hand pump that was used to pump water from the underground reservoir to a holding tank upstairs was broken. Hopefully a patch job would keep the water flowing until a new one could be brought to the Island.
It was also discovered that our host had a very bad toothache. Apparently there was another cruiser coming soon who was a surgeon & would be able to extract the tooth.

In the meantime the Captain had some supplies on our boat that might help to alleviate the pain. After a short visit to the Island we went all went back to the boat. The Captain & I gathered pain medication & cloves & headed back to the Island to administer to our "patient". I donned some rubber gloves we had on board & a napkin turned into a nurses' cap & headed to shore.

Papa John probably forgot his pain for a few minutes when he laid eyes on his "nurse".  We all had such a good laugh. Hopefully the surgeon won't be too many days before arriving.

And the mishaps still keep happening. While going ashore in our dinghy, with the Captain navigating using the little dinghy motor, she managed to hit a coral head. The water is crystal clear & all rocks & fish, & sharks, etc. are clearly visible. Lucky, she didn't appear to do any damage. The motor still worked.

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Continue our Adventures with our Suvarov Visit

 

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We updated our Website January 22, 2008